Necktie manufacture



Sept. 27, 1938. .1 wElsBA-UM v 2,131,545

NECKTIE MANUFACTURE Filed March 5, 1936 INVENTOR.

ATTORNEYS.

Patented Sept. 27, 1 938 UNITED STATES 'Application March '5, 193l 5 claimen (c i;4

In the manufacture of neckties it has been the custom in the past to lay a plurality of plies of material onthe cutting table, and in accordance with a predetermined pattern, through a number of successive layers at the same time. This makes a desired number of ties with various kinds of material which may be made up in the same manner, and the ties will accordingly all be the same size.

There are a great many diierent styles yof neckties, both of the four-in-hand and bow type, and there are various plans of folding the material and inserting linings in the ties. The silk or Vother fabric from which' tiesare made is usually such that it must be blocked before the tie can be made up.

The usual method of blocking a tie in the vpast has been to place the material 'on a flat board, and then place on the material a cardboard pattern piece having the nished width and length of the tie. The material is then folded-over the pattern piece, and,- since the pattern piece must be'removed before the tie is nished, it has customary for the tie maker to take a hand iron and press the edges of the folds of the material along the edges of the pattern piece. The pattern piece is then removed and the liner inserted; if the liner is to be used, and the various folds of the material are stitched together, with the side edges of the tie remaining the pre-creasededgges" of the original material as set or blocked by the pressing with the hand iron.

The hand blocking of the tie material requires very delicate workmanship, and is a painstaking operation, because the least little crlnkle in the fabric, causes the tie to developtwisted portions which are unattractive in appearance and make the ties unsalable.

It is the object of my invention to provide a greftly simplified method of mechanically blocking the tie by a pressing operation which obviates the necessity of using a pattern piece and any' hand iron pressingof the material along predetermined fold lines.

It is further my object to provide in combination with a pressing machine, a series of pattern pressing plates which will enable a tie maker to press the tie material and then proceed with' th'e Iinishing of the tie without further manipulation of the material.

The above objects and other objects to which to cut mounted in the buck so that tfateq. `in the following drawing'an "with=f.refer` encje 'to aar-femme ifi pressed without e i lines-fof -fold n *mate-gia;

ppa pressing senses 2: le

pressi eds' edges of the recessed portion there will be no tendency for the blank to become disaligned. I consider this positioning and locating operation an essential step in my process because the tie not only obviates a great deal of work on the part.

of the operator but insures uniform production so that one tie will be exactly like every other tie.

In packing and displaying ties that each tie should be exactly like every other tie is a very important matter, and one of the reasons why my method has led to such commercial success is because purchasers come to know that each tie will be exactly like every other tie regardless, of course, of the difference in pattern of the material from which the tie is made.

The press may otherwise be equipped in the usual manner so that open steam may be caused to issue through the perforations in the upper and lower pattern plate at desired intervals, or s`o that a vacuum may be induced in either the head or the buck. It may further be` desired to have a connection so that air pressure may be induced in either the head or the buck.

Referring now to Fig. 4, the tie material generally indicated at I0 has diagonally cut ends H, I la, the end I la being the portion which is larger and will accordingly be the outside, visible portion of afour-in-hand tie. It will be noted that the tie has three lines of fold or creases ab, cd, and ef, which are caused by the creasing of the fabric between the ridges a'b', c'd' and` ef of the head pattern plate, and the grooves a2b2, c2d2, and e2f2 of the buck pattern plate. l

After the fabric has'been pressed, the operator first folds down the fabric along the crease ab, and then folds the fabric along the crease ef. The double ply folds are then folded together along the creases cd. 'Ihis will cause the edges gh of one side of the fabric piece and the edges i7' of the other to lie in overlapped parallel arrangement extending along one of the edges of the finished tie as indicated in Fig. 5. The opposite edge of the tie will be formed by overlying layers,

-the outer layer being. the fold along the lines ab,

and the underlying folded layer the fold along the line ef, so that when the tie is pressed the entire medial section will be freefrom any underlying edges or edge folds of fabric, and so that the tie may 'be pressed without danger of developing a shiny area.

The folding of the blank into the finished tie may be more easily explained by referring to that portion or width of the tie between the creases cd, ab as the first or exposed width; that portion between the crease ab and the side edge gh as the second width; that portion between the creases cd and ef as the third width and that portion between the crease ef and the side edge i7 as the fourth width.

While I have described 'my invention with reference to a four-fold tie, the same plan may be used in blocking a tie composed of any desired number of folds, such as an eight-fold tie.

By the use of my invention, I eliminate entirely the necessity of using cardboard patterns, and the hand pressing of various creases or fold lines during the making of the tie. I he folds 0fthe tie remain until such time as the maker wishes to nish the tie, which can be accomplished simply by the addition of stitches as indicated in Fig. 5 at 1c and l.

If material such as Palm Beach cloth is used as the fabric, and the material is cut on the bias, a four-fold tie can be made Without any lining,

. and with only stitches holding the tie together along the fold lines ef, ab. With such a construction there is no tendency for the tie to pull out of twist at the tie portion, and the tie may be laundered and pressed without it being necessary to remove the stitches which hold the tie together.

Having thus described my invention, what I i claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Pat`- ent, is:

-tial relationship to said edge positioning means, 'and bearing a predetermined spatial relationship each to the other, in such a way that said crease forming elements extend generally in the bias direction of said tie blank and in sucha Way that the edges of said tie blank bear a predetermined spatial relationship to said crease forming elements throughout thelength of said edges, and simultaneously forming in said tie blank by means of said crease forming elements a series ofatleast three longitudinally disposed non-parallel form retaining creases, said creases being formed from thesame side of said tie blank and having predetermined spatial relationship to each other I and to the edges of said blank, then folding said blank along the lines of said form retaining creases over and over upon itself to form a tie body, and securing folded portions of said tie body to each other.

2. A process of manufacturing four-in-hand ties without a hand blocking operation, which comprises cutting a supply of fabric on the bias to form a long, narrow, irregularly shaped tie blank, hemming end portions of said blank, positioning said blank with respect to longitudinally disposed crease forming elements and the edges of said blank with respect to longitudinally disposed edge positioning means, said crease forining elements bearing a predetermined spatial relationship to said edge positioning means, and bearing a predetermined spatial relationship each to the other, in such a way that said crease forming elements extend -generally in the bias direction of said tie blank and in such a way that the i edges of said tie blank bear a predetermined spatial relationship to said crease forming elements throughout the length of said edges, and simultaneously forming in said tie blank by means of said crease forming elements a series of at least three longitudinally disposed non-parallel form retaining creases, said creases being formed from the same side of said tie blank and having predetermined spatial relationship to each other and to the edges of said blank, then folding said blank along the lines of said form retaining creases over and over upon itself to form a tie body, and securing folded portions of said tie bodyto each other.

3. A process of manufacturing four-in-hand ties without a hand blocking operation, which comprises cutting a supply of fabric on the bias to form a long, narrow, irregularly shaped tie blank, positioning said blank with respect to longitudinally disposed crease forming elements and the edges of said' blank with respect to longitudinally disposed edge positioning means, said 'crease forming elements bearing a predetermined spatial relationship to said edge positioning means, and bearing a predetermined spatial relationship each to the other, in such a way that said crease forming elements extend generally said blank, then folding said blank along the lines of said form retaining creases over and over upon itself to form a tie body, and securing folded portions of said tie body to each other with spaced stitches so arranged between the folds which hold the ltie body together, that uniform longitudinal stretchability of the tie will -result Without buckling of the fabric of the tie Y' body.

4. A process of manufacturing four-in-hand ties without a hand blocking operation, whichl comprises cutting a supplyof fabric on the bias to form a long, narr'ow, irregularly shaped tie blank, positioning said tie blank in a correspondingly shaped recess in a pressing surface whereby the edges of said recess serve to position said blank,' said. recess having a plurality of longitudinally disposed, non-parallel, ridge forming depressions therein bearing a predetermined spatial relationship to each otherand to theedges of said depression, and pressing said tie blank therein by means of a cooperating pressing member characterized by `a raised portion of a' size and shape similar to said recess, said raised portion having raised ridge forming members thereonof a size, shape and disposition corresponding to the size, shape and disposition of said ridge forming depressions whereby toform in said blank simultaneously a series of at least three longitudinally disposed non-parallel form-I retaining creases, then folding said tie.v blank along the lines of said' form-retaining creases over and over upon itself to form a tie body, and

securing folded portions of said tie body to each other.

5. A process of manufacturing four-in-hand ties without a hand blocking operation, which comprises cutting a supply of necktie fabric to form a long narrow irregularly shaped tie blank, positioning said blank with respect to longitudinally disposedl crease forming elements and the edges of said blank with respect to longitudinally disposed vedge positioning means, said crease forming elements bearing a predetermined spatial relationship to said edge positioning.

means, and bearing a predetermined spatial relationship each to the other, in such a way that said crease forming elements extend generally in alignment with the length of said tie blank and in such a way that edges of said tie blank bear a predetermined spatial relationship to saidl crease forming elements throughout the length of said edges, and simultaneously forming in said tie blank by means of said crease forming elements, a series of longitudinally disposed nonparallel form retaining creases, said creases having predetermined spatial relationship to each other and to the-'edges of the blank, then folding said blank along the lines of said form retaining creases to form a tie body, and securing folded portions of said tie body to each other.

JACK WEIsBAUM. 

